Gladen/Mosconi audio install

Discussion in 'ICE, Nav, Apps and other tech stuff' started by kleynie, Sep 12, 2017.

  1. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    Finally got round to posting a bit of a DIY about my audio install. This applies to a 2015 535d GT (F07), but the same speakers are used in the F10 and F11.
    I started with the base system with no tweeters and 6" underseat subs. The principle is to take the high level outputs from the stock head unit (4 channels) and feed them to the Mosconi amp. I purchased all the audio bits from www.teamspb.co.uk , they also supplied a loom and quad loom adapter which is required if your have Nav and blue tooth etc, but I did not use either of these as I did not fancy taking the head unit out and running the (massive) loom from front to back. Instead I spliced into the speaker cables underneath the seats. All the BMW bits came from Ed at Cotswolds (thanks Ed)

    The kit lists is as follows:

    BMW tweeter grils (front door mirror sails) Part no.51337197859 & 60
    BMW tweeter grills (rear door) part no. 51427216480 depending on colour
    10x door card plastic clips (to replace any that break)
    Gladen Audio 201 BMW speaker kit (subs, mids and tweeters)
    Gladen Audio 201 rear components only (mids and tweeters)
    Mosconi D2 80.6DSP 6 channel amplifier
    Gladen Audio 4ch integration harness 5m
    Mosconi Quad loop adapter
    Power cable Positive and Negative (6m)
    Fuse and fuse holder
    Speaker cable (8m)
    Crimps
    9 sheets of Dynamat

    The last item on the list was from Amazon as it was the cheapest, I wanted to sound deaden every door whilst I had the door cards removed, I figured two sheets of Dynamat per door, it comes in a pack of nine, so happy with that.

    The first thing I did was to work on the rear, on the F07 the rear speakers are in the doors, I only had a full range co-axial in each door as this was the base offering, like this:
    20170702_062940.jpg

    Removing the door panel is covered in a DIY from another forum which I can supply if required. Once the panel was removed I found that the mid range speakers did not fit as they were slightly too big and I had to make a panel to hold the tweeter out of a piece of Amtico!:

    20170610_102845.jpg

    I then had to drill the door card to accept the tweeter grill:

    20170702_070952.jpg

    This next picture shows the tweeter grill held in position with a piece of drain pipe and the raised disc of the larger speaker grill removed to allow the larger speaker to fit flush on the door panel:

    20170610_102806.jpg

    Then I covered everything in Dynamat and fitted the home made neoprene gasket so that the mid range speaker sat tight onto the door card:

    20170610_105128.jpg

    Next I fitted the speakers and the crossover (the crossover is where you can see the red wire sticking out):

    20170610_115358.jpg

    I also fitted Dynamat to the inside of the door as per the picture below:

    20170702_091943.jpg

    The door panel was refitted after a full half a day just on this one door:

    20170702_125007.jpg

    Obviously I did the same on the other rear door, this is a picture showing the dynamat in the other door:

    20170610_141455.jpg

    And the finished job, now both rear doors complete:

    20170610_151843.jpg

    At this stage I had not completed any wiring and the rear doors were still fed from the stock head unit.

    Onto the front, these were much easier as I did not have to do any drilling, just had to remove the protruding disc on the rear of the door card speaker grill to allow the slightly larger Gladen mids to fit flush and tight the same as the rears. At this stage I also fitted the crossover (centre of the picture between the two metal clips), this then left the wire to go to the tweeter at the wing mirror. I have covered every wire with Tessa felt tape:

    20170805_181134.jpg

    then I treated the door to dynamat:

    20170805_184610.jpg

    Next with the door card refitted I could fit the Gladen tweeter into the grill (sail) supplied by Ed @ Cotswolds and fit the sail to the door:

    20170805_192019.jpg

    This process was repeated on the other front door where I managed to break one of the light strips that supplies the ambient light to the door handle, again Ed to the rescue with a new part.
    Again at this stage I had done no wiring and the speakers were still fed via the stock head unit.

    Now onto the subs where I had to unbolt the seats and move them forwards, very easy. The hard bit was removing the old subs as they are bonded in place and take some force to remove:

    20170806_135220.jpg

    Old verses new:

    20170806_135211.jpg

    Next I tackled the wiring. On these cars F10,F11 included, the front door speakers are fed from the underseat subs. In the new set up I was feeding the door speakers from separate channels and feeding the subs from channel 5 and 6 of the new 6 channel amp. so the cables were cut and joined. In this picture the smaller blue cables are going to the front door and the larger blue cables are coming from the head unit, these were both extended to go to the amp in the boot and back. the new blue and black cable at the bottom of the picture is totally new and is the feed to the sub.

    20170806_144038.jpg

    And the finished result before the stock cover was refitted:

    20170806_151154.jpg

    Also whilst I had the seats removed I could gain access to the speaker cables that feed the rear doors, these were just under the carpet at the seat belt base, again I cut and extended these to go to the new boot mounted amp and back. For some reason I did not take any pictures of this!

    On to the boot now where I had 2 speaker cables from the head unit either side and 3 speaker cables going to the speakers (Subs, front door, rear door) either side ready for the amp install.
    The amp turns 4 inputs into 6 outputs to give the extra 2 channels for the under seat subs, shown here on a piece of MDF that I made to mount it:

    20170806_201514.jpg

    I mounted the amp underneath the false floor of the rear of the boot, just behind the rear seats and routed the cables and joined everything up:

    20170813_180814.jpg


    Last was the live to the battery (you can see the fuse mounted near the negative battery terminal) and a liberal helping of dynamat in the boot:

    20170813_185309.jpg

    So that was the actual install, it took 4 days to get to this stage and I still had not set the amp up.
    I ran it like this for a week or so until I had time to fiddle with the amp settings and set the gain - this is difficult as it makes the gongs and parking sensors very loud, so I had to get that just right.
    Once that was done all I had to do was set the DSP by connecting a windows laptop to the amp and using the Mosconi software, I could fiddle to my hearts content. However, I could not seem to get the sound right, so I found a DSP file on M3cutters forum and I uploaded that file and modified the time lag of the speakers to account for the larger F07 body, it now sounds fantastic with nice crisp bass and not too boomy, good mid range and nice clear highs.

    Overall, I would not attempt this again. I did not know what I was letting myself in for! I'm no stranger to audio installs, but these cars are made so well that it was a pain to remove anything.

    But I have no squeaks or rattles and when doing 70mph the car is whisper quiet due to the dynamat sound deadening - now that was well worth it.

    Ian
     
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  2. bishbosh
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    bishbosh Site Supporter

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    Nice install Ian, I did wonder when you were going to get around to it ;) Maybe a bit late now but hope you checked the weather seal was OK. I found it a bit of a pain to remove the moisture barrier and sadly the weather seal (black glue) looked a bit worse for wear. Thought it would be OK but it leaked when it rained and I ended up replacing the seal.
     
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  3. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    I didn't remove the bottom half of the seal, just let the membrane flop over to gain access. No problems so far.
     
  4. snrbrtsn
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    snrbrtsn WARLORD Site Supporter

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    Very nice install Ian

    I'd be tempted to remove the connectors and solder the joints for less resistance & shield with heat shrink but then again it's proved functional.

    Well done and what a take on, knowing the pain to remove the doorcards...

    I'll assume phase two will be a centre speaker in the dash and a further pair of speakers in the rear parcel shelve ....
     
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  5. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    I would have usually soldered the joints but I used 4mm sq cable which would have been a pain to solder. I have a proper ratchet crimp tool, so at least I know the joints are good.
    There will be no phase two, attention has turned to the Audi now.
     
  6. Cotswold BMW
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    Cotswold BMW Site Sponsor

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    The hole cutter photo with the door card looks scary :eek:
    , but a brilliant job all round by the looks of it.
     
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  7. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    It certainly was scary, a millimetre either way and the grill wouldn't have fitted.

    I dread to think what the labour would have cost if I'd have got this done.
     
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  8. bishbosh
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    bishbosh Site Supporter

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    Does the dynamat in the boot make any difference, say with road noise, etc?
     
  9. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    It seems to have muted the exhaust a bit, which is a good thing in this type of car. I would say the biggest gains are from the doors, the car is literally silent at 70mph.
     
  10. bishbosh
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    bishbosh Site Supporter

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    It really improves the doors doesn't it? I only had enough dynamat to do the fronts so the rear doors don't have any, nor the boot.
     
  11. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    Yes, I would have done the floor in the footwells as well if it was easy, which it is not! 9 sheets of dynamat for £129 was probably the cheapest and most effective part of the project.
     
  12. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    As mentioned above, I did not use the plug and play wiring loom, so I have a 4 channel 5m loom if anyone needs it, free to a good home (cost around £100)
     
  13. Merc? No. BM!
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    Brave! :eek:

    Well done. Looks professional to me. (y)
     
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  14. Merc? No. BM!
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    And uhm... How does it all sound? :)
     
  15. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    Sounds very nice. Not the sort of bass you would get from a bass box in the boot, but then I'm not 17 any more! The bass is crisp, the mids are clear and the highs are accurate.
     
  16. idrussell
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    Looks an impressive install Ian and you are way braver than me doing that. I remember the days of removing door cards and them never going back on correctly.. One of the options on my 640 is 'HiFi System Professional DSP' which has several options to play with - need to get some time to experiment with the settings!
     
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  17. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    The HiFi system that BMW provides will have 8" subs, you should get decent sound from that, the standard system has 6" subs (if you can call them that). In addition you'll have the dash mounted centre speaker, not sure what that actually adds to the sound stage as my ten speakers seems more than enough.
    I have read that you could benefit from a better amp as the BMW HiFi one is half baked, but that should be an easy upgrade in theory.
     
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  18. idrussell
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    Thanks for the info. I will have a play about with the settings but the sound already seems pretty impressive to me.
     
  19. mach one
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    looking good Ian you are a braver man than me i would have been terrified taking a hole saw to the rear door cards

    it looks like my car has the BMW Hi fi speaker system as it has two rear door speakers and the centre speaker over the I drive display but it is totally wasted on me as i would say most of the time it is never on, if i have passengers in the car the stereo is off or very very low volume and on my own in the car i have radio two on as background noise

    I dont have a single song on my I drive and dont even have a single CD disc in the car so guess i am a lost cause when it comes to in car entertainment
     
  20. kleynie
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    kleynie WARLORD Site Supporter

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    I like my music and so do my kids. We have a fight every time we're in the car as to who will connect their phone to listen to music. Personally I prefer to upload my CD collection.
     
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